A small guide to the construction of ties

A common and important differentation in constructing ties is that of the tipping. Ties are often categorised as self-tipped or untipped.

Untipped ties are those where the back of the blade tips have not been closed with fabric whereas self-tipped ties have their blade tips closed with the same fabric used for making the tie.

Most tie makers use a synthetic or other material fabric, sometimes printed or woven with the brand’s name, as a tipping fabric, which is a clear sign of cost reduction. Ties with a different tipping fabric other than the upper fabric are called tipped ties.

Today the majority of ties are self-tipped and only very few tie makers can afford to offer untipped ties.

Untipped ties can be those with an unlined construction such as exclusive 7-fold ties and lightly lined 3-fold ties, as such tie constructions have no interlining or at least the interlining is minimal and hidden in the deeper part of the tie. Some of the reasons for using a minimal, light interlining is to have a perfectly balanced tie knot that is not bulky and to achieve a beautiful drape.

The construction of untipped ties certainly require much more hand work as the hem of each blade must be patiently handrolled which means that the upper material is carefully folded into a roll by hand and secured with stitches. The handrolling process takes approximately 30 minutes for each tip of a tie.

All of our untipped ties offer a subtle elegant knot. They are lighter to wear, have a more flexible drape and are more playful. Their airy character makes them ideal for warmer climates and if made of loose weaved fabrics such as silk grenadine they allow a remarkable see through effect.

 

"It takes only a few small details to add up to one favorable impression."

—Cary Grant